Emmanuel Reynaud, proprietor at Château Rayas, one of Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s legendary estates, as well as two other Rhône wineries, passed away on Nov. 25. He was 61.
“The greatest legacy Mr. Reynaud left us is simple: When you tend to your vines and your wines with meticulous care every day, and when you infuse them with your personality and your soul, you can move the entire world,” said Antonin Coulon of Châteauneuf’s Domaine de Beaurenard, a friend of the family. “This is when wine transcends its status as a mere beverage and becomes a symbol of connection and sharing.”
There is no single expression of pure Grenache more coveted and famous than Château Rayas. Founded by Albert Reynaud in 1880, Rayas owes its cult status to Albert’s grandson, Jacques Reynaud—often referred to as the “godfather of Châteauneuf.” When Jacques died suddenly in 1997 with no heir, his widow asked their nephew, Emmanuel, then 34, to take charge of Château Rayas and Château de Fonsalette, an estate located just outside Châteauneuf.
Emmanuel had been making the wines at Château des Tours in the neighboring Vacqueyras appellation, which the family had owned since 1935 (and where he succeeded his father, Bertrand). He agreed to take the reins and has since been responsible for all three of the Reynaud estates.
Continuing—and Improving Upon—a Legend
They were big shoes to fill, and it was challenging for Emmanuel in the beginning. Jacques had dialed in on the singular Rayas style that made the name iconic the world over: supremely finessed, perfumy 100 percent Grenache wines that offer elegance and freshness despite considerable power and alcohol. The Reynaud formula begins with their unique and meticulously farmed vineyards—29 acres of very old, low-yielding vines in cooler, north-facing sites with sandy soils in the northeastern part of Châteauneuf that are used to create one red wine (and a small amount of white). They are proudly the last to harvest each year. In the cellar, there is no new oak, mostly large foudres over 70 years old, and no fining or filtration.
Living up to the reputation of his legendary uncle was not easy, and Emmanuel had inherited vineyards in transition—uncle Jacques had replanted more than 50 percent of the property’s vines in the 1980s, and it’s much more difficult to coax great Grenache wines from young vines. “It’s easy to make a great wine when you only are dealing with old vines,” he told Wine Spectator in 2006. “Or making a cuvée of only 1,000 bottles.”
[article-img-container][src=2025-12/ns_emmanuel-reynaud-rayas-112525_1600.jpg] [credit= (Josyane Piffaut)] [alt= Emmanuel Reynaud in 1999 at Château Rayas.] [end: article-img-container]
But with time he proved his skill as a vigneron, maintaining and improving the quality of the Rayas wines. With increasingly meticulous work in the vineyard and the cellar, the wines became more consistent and reliably free of flaws that were a problem in certain vintages during his uncle’s time.
“Emmanuel contributed in making Rayas a legend and myth every vintage,” said one close friend and fellow Rhône winemaker. “It was not the case before him. You could have great Rayas vintages and some disappointing ones. I often consider him as ‘from another planet’ because he was able to take risks that not many vintners were able to take. He has inspired a lot of winemakers but none could achieve the singularity he had in his wines due to the special environment that he knew to maintain in Rayas.”
A “Discreet and Humble Character” Behind One of the World’s Most Famous Wines
The Reynaud family has always been famously reclusive, keeping a low profile at their nondescript estate and home near the village of Courthézon, where they vinify their wines. Lines of cars leading up to the property are a common sight, as wine lovers from the region and around the world line up to receive their annual allocation of bottles. Rayas produces less than 1,700 cases per year and the prices in the secondary market have skyrocketed in recent decades, starting well north of $1,000 per bottle in most vintages.
Rayas also makes a highly allocated white wine from Clairette and Grenache Blanc aged in stainless steel that’s rich, savory and has a similar ability to age. As in his reds, Reynaud’s style prioritizes finesse over robust, sheer power.
The feverish demand for his wines didn’t seem to go to his head. Emmanuel remained humble and introverted, preferring to spend time in his old-vine Grenache vineyards, surrounded by forests and pine trees—unusual for Châteauneuf. Many in the region wondered why he didn’t sacrifice some of those forested lands to expand his vineyard holdings to increase production. But he was ahead of his time in respecting the importance of biodiversity and the influence of the surrounding environment on vine health.
“Emmanuel will remain a Rhône legend in the world of wine because he had a vision for Grenache that is unique, a recipe he created that will remain a secret,” said Frédéric Lavau, a neighbor and friend to the Reynaud family and owner of Maison Lavau, which operates throughout the Rhône. “Emmanuel’s three sons have the tools and know-how to extend the legacy.”
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