Christian Borel has seen a lot of things as wine director for his family’s restaurant, L’Auberge Provençale. Located in Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley, the beautiful country inn and restaurant has more than 5,400 bottles in its cellar and has held a Best of Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator since 2008. But nothing prepared Borel to be sprinting through his dining room, shouting, “They’re stealing Romanée-Conti!”
On Nov. 19, two thieves carried out a plot both simple and brazen to steal six bottles worth an estimated $42,000 from the famed Burgundy producer from L’Auberge Provençale. One suspect is in police custody in Clarke County, where she is being held without bond and faces up to 50 years in prison. The other is at large, having made off with bottles of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti 2020, Richebourg 2020, Romanée St.-Vivant 2020, Vosne-Romanée 2020, Echézeaux 2019 and Grands Echézeaux 2021. The Romanée-Conti 2020 alone is worth more than $18,000 at retail, if you can find it.
Chat and Grab
According to Borel, the two perpetrators—a man and a woman—arrived at L’Auberge and claimed they were representing a Canadian client who was “evaluating venues for a potential event.” The two emphasized that the client was particular about wine storage and that they needed to see the cellar, as well as the wine list and dining room. This struck Borel as odd, but he obliged, since it isn’t out of the ordinary for someone to want to see the cellar. “At least once a week, I’d bring guests down there,” Borel told Wine Spectator. “Some people just want to see a cool cellar.”
While in the cellar, the woman drew Borel’s attention by asking pesky questions—“an absolute chatterbox”—and showing that she had rudimentary wine knowledge. Her companion was quiet the whole time. But behind his back, Borel heard the clink of bottles.
[article-img-container][src=2025-12/restaurant-guide-rhone-wines-lauberge-052324_1600.jpg] [credit= (Altamira)] [alt= L’Auberge Provençale in Virginia] [end: article-img-container]
As they were leaving the cellar, Borel had a feeling they had taken something. “I did a quick glance when we were leaving and I was trying to look for something obvious,” said Borel. “We got to the top of the stairs, and I asked them as plainly as I could [if they had taken something], but kind of firmly, but they didn’t respond. In hindsight, I wish I had just told him to stop right there.”
As they started leaving the building, Borel sped to the cellar and went to the key bins with his most expensive wines. He found one, where he kept the restaurant’s bottles of DRC, with a layer empty and a few decoy bottles, topped with screwcaps, lying there.
“Part of me thinks he put those decoy bottles there not to actually trick me, but more of a middle finger,” said Borel. “I don’t know what was in his head, but you couldn’t even buy a $10 bottle? This is like a $4 bottle of Pinot.”
For a restaurant like L’Auberge Provençale, receiving an allocation of DRC is a crowning achievement for their wine list. With so few bottles available, securing one elevates an entire program, according to Borel. “It was a milestone for us to finally have some DRC on the menu. It’s the pinnacle of Pinot.”
The Chase
Borel appreciates how quickly his team sprang into action as he tore through the dining room shouting. “They didn’t think for one second. We never rehearsed this,” said Borel. “The fact that they were all like, ‘Let’s go,’ it took me aback.” Even a customer at the bar joined the sprint after the suspects.
According to Borel, the staff chased the pair across the property to their car. Borel attempted to stop the male suspect by opening the car door, but “he shoved me backward and accelerated, nearly dragging me underneath.”
As the driver tore out through the grass in front of the restaurant, the female suspect fell out of the car. She was apprehended by a staff member until police arrived. The Clarke County Sheriff’s office identified her as Natali Ray, 56, from Kent in the U.K. Ray has been charged with grand larceny. Her companion is still at large.
After the male suspect fled down Route 340, Borel found two bottles thrown into the grass. As for the other six bottles, Borel doesn’t know what the suspect plans to do with them, since they’re so young. “It’s kind of like infanticide,” says Borel. “Those bottles aren’t going to be ready for 10 or 15 more years. It’s pointless.” The restaurant has the bottles’ serial numbers, and Borel has alerted auction houses, but he fears the wines could easily be sold on the black market.
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